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Muddy Waters: A Journey into Asia’s Elephant Tourism

August 9, 2016 by Cynthia Ord Leave a Comment

This is the (shortened) editor’s note from my latest project: Elephants in Asia, Ethically, a guidebook published by Horizon Travel Press and available for free download.

It’s the product of my four months in northern Thailand, where I’ve gotten mildly obsessed with elephants in tourism. I decided to do the homework for all Asia travelers and research the situation. You’re welcome.

I couldn’t be happier with the heartfelt collaboration this book became. Read before you ride!


dozens of elephant brochures

In Chiang Mai, a small city in northern Thailand that I’ve called home for several months, I’m surrounded by elephants. Not real ones, of course, but images of Asia’s sacred animal. They adorn clothing and souvenirs at the night markets. They’re the subject of art and statues. They’re pictured alongside beaming tourists on shiny travel brochures.

This city is a major gateway to elephant tours in Southeast Asia and visiting the gentle giants is a big part of why travelers come to northern Thailand.

For fun, I started collecting brochures for all the elephant tour operators I could find. I gathered more than 20, each making claims: “no riding” policies for example; how they served as “care homes”; how they practiced “elephant rescue”.

From what, exactly, are we rescuing these creatures?

Reading through the glossy trifolds, I found more questions than answers. From what, exactly, are we rescuing these creatures? And how are we, as travelers, supposed to know which operators are really doing what they claim to be doing?

From those questions, this guidebook was born. Travelers need help navigating the muddy waters of Asian elephant tourism, so we set out to look at this thorny subject, create a guide to the ethical issues, and how to choose tours responsibly.

elephant statue

Who to ask about the ethics of elephant tourism

In my journey through the landscape of elephant tourism in Asia today, I’ve met an amazing cast of characters. I’ve heard from storytelling travel bloggers who have spent anywhere from a few hours to several years with Asian elephants. I’ve reached out to activists and advocates at non-profit organizations doing inspiring things in the field of elephant conservation and welfare. I’ve interviewed a lively pair of wildlife tourism inspectors. I’ve learned from the scientific community about what we know and what we don’t. Finally, I’ve gotten up close and personal with mahouts (traditional elephant handlers, whose voices go largely unheard), and elephants themselves, rescued from cruel pasts and with the scars to prove it.

This book is a collection of their voices, their stories, their perspectives. In these pages, you’ll hear from some of the most vocal experts in the field.

Spoiler alert: they’ll disagree.

There are significant research gaps on elephant training methods. Opinions run strong on the ethics of elephant riding and other tour activities. Discourse has become polarized and emotive. While strong Western viewpoints abound, it is harder to find local voices willing to put their heads above the parapet. I’ve come to realize there are no clear, tidy answers.

Do we insist on up-close, selfie-ready encounters? Or can we move on?

As I sought out who to ask about elephants and tourism here in Asia, I came full circle. We need to ask ourselves. The questions are left for us, as travelers and as humans: what kind of elephant experiences will we demand? Do we insist on up-close, selfie-ready encounters? Or can we move on to something a little more in-the-wild, more distant, more hands-off? The decision is yours to make.

Cynthia Ord, elephants

Reviews and praise for Elephants in Asia, Ethically

Many travelers we meet just don’t know about the ethical issues surrounding elephant tourism. They see the marketing, the photos, the happy faces of other travelers and just don’t realize what the elephants went–and are–going through. I believe that if these same travelers were made aware of the unintended negative consequences of their decisions that they would choose to do something different. That is why this guide is so important to raise awareness of these ethical issues, and to offer positive alternatives.
~ Audrey Scott, Co-founder, Uncornered Market

People love elephants. But sometimes that means we sacrifice their well-being to get close to them. Educating the public about what elephants in trekking camps and other tourist attractions really go through to become ‘tame’ is key in shaping a future for these beautiful, fascinating animals.
~ Sarah V. Schweig, The Dodo

It is wonderful to see such a comprehensive, and well-researched guide that details the realities for captive elephants working in the tourism industry. This important and timely guide outlines responsible and ethical criteria for people to understand when making choices about where to visit for the most meaningful, natural and truly educational elephant encounters. The more people support places where elephants are treated with the respect and dignity they deserve, the quicker we will see the necessary changes in the elephant tourism business that will help to ensure a healthier future for captive elephants, and those who care for them.
~ Patricia Sims, Co-founder, World Elephant Day


Download the free guidebook

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Filed Under: Blog Tagged With: animal welfare, Asian elephants, Chiang Mai, conservation, ecotourism, responsible tourism, Southeast Asia, sustainable tourism, Thailand, Tourism

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About Cynthia Ord

cynthia ordColorado native. Inveterate traveler. Marketing strategy, management, and support for small businesses and place-based brands.
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